The Port of Malaga is a melting pot of cultures, sounds and colours. We usually stroll around the port in the evening about 9pm. The sun, although hanging low in the sky, continues to shine brightly, the temperature around 27 degrees. 

It’s an amazing place for people watching. I love to watch the Northern Europeans and the Brits as they straggle from the beach to the bars and restaurants. They glow pinkly from too much sun or too much cerveza, or both. Their feet are sandy, the shirts are off, and they grin widely as they walk along the promenade, volleyballs and beach umbrellas held hostage under sweaty armpits.

By 10pm, the port-side restaurants are heaving with people, who sit at outdoor tables with jugs of cold cerveza and plates piled high with seafood. The restaurant chairs face outwards, and the diners people-watch those on the promenade, while we watch them right back.

The Port of Málaga is huge, and one of the oldest in the Mediterranean.  But there’s more to watch than just people! As an international seaport, there’s always something to look at, from Navy frigates, to the liquid loads of olive oil, or containers filled with shiny new cars.

Sometimes, the promenade is in the shadow of an enormous cruise liner, tethered to the dock. The Azamara Pursuit (pictured) is a tiny one, just 181m long, with only 702 passengers.  In Port on the same day, was the Mein Schiff, with 2,217 passengers.

The month of April is Malaga’s peak cruising month, with 43 ships arriving in Port (our time here, in June is relatively quiet, with only 14 ships).  In April, there’s a time when four cruise liners dock on the same day, collectively spewing about 10,000 people onto the streets of Malaga. Here’s three of April’s ‘big’ visitors, although they came on different days:

• Wonder of the Seas (Royal Caribbean) – 6,988 passengers
• Aida Cosma (Aida Cruises) – 6,880 passengers
• Britannia (Carnival) – 4,324 passengers

The two years of the pandemic must have been absolutely brutal for a city like Malaga. It’s good to see the people, the tourists and the excitement back on the streets.

Speaking of excitement, Malaga appears to be a much-loved destination for buck and hen parties. They are everywhere, especially on the weekends! The groom invariably wears an elaborate dress and make-up, while last night, we saw a bride in an inflatable penis outfit, so that was interesting.

Each stag and hen are boisterously supported by their friends, who wear matching tutus, sashes and tiaras, bespoke printed t-shirts, wigs and outrageously loud shirts.  Sometimes all at once.

At yesterday’s restaurant, a group of guys wore matching t-shirts featuring the image of a fencer (the sport, not the guy who builds fences). Rosco thought they were a social group of fencers (cute), but once we worked out the translation, it was just another buck’s party: “Married? It’s just my last name. My sabre still shines.”

After an hour or so walking around the Port, we head for home via the old town. We see another ‘Bride Tribe’. Rosco takes a photo.

We’re now in the long twilight of the European Summer, my favourite time of day. The floodlights come on, highlighting the stone-hewn buildings, the rows of Canary Island date palms, and the castle walls above us on the hill.  For once, we stop at the ancient Roman ruins (it’s surprising how often we walk past these 2,000 years old ruins with hardly a glance). The seats of the Roman theatre glow golden in the dusk light, just like my Rosco, looking relaxed and happy.  

We call in for dinner at our new favourite Tapas Bar on Calle Victoria, 10.30pm being a completely normal time for a meal in Spain. We share a wedge of tortilla and a plate of sliced tomato drizzled with olive oil. Rosco drinks a caña of local Malaga beer, his favourite for the taste, my favourite because it doesn’t make him fart. I drink Tinto de Verano (wine of the summer) a mix of red wine (tempranillo), lemon Fanta and ice. It sounds odd, but it’s very Spanish, exceedingly refreshing, and I may be slightly addicted to it.

Note: a caña is a small glass. It’s pronounced ‘can-ya’ as in … can ya get me a decent-sized glass?

And there ends another typical evening in Malaga.

Date: 17 June 2022 | Sunrise: 6.58am | Sunset: 9.38pm | Temperature: 19 – 31 degrees | price of iceberg lettuce: 80 cents (Euro)

Viva España

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